STILE PERSONALE

IL MIO PICCOLO OMAGGIO AL GRANDE GIVENCHY

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Hubert Taffin de Givenchy, aristocratico stilista francese dotato di raffinata eleganza e talento naturale, dichiarò: Ho sognato una donna liberata, non più fasciata e blindata nei tessuti. Lui, che a l’età di 25 anni fu il più giovane direttore creativo di Parigi dell’epoca e che a 27 creerà la sua casa di moda, cosa ha rappresentato nel mondo della moda femminile?

Ispirandosi all’alta moda e allo stilista spagnolo Cristobal Balenciaga -che riconosceva come suo mentore- e a differenza di Christian Dior, che seguiva le linee classiche delineando la figura femminile in modo preciso , Givenchy con grande intuizione creò uno stile femminile più originale e innovativo proponendo abiti morbidi e comodi, di linee dinamiche e movimentate. Diventò così l’emblema della donna moderna, libera, e indipendente, mantenendo uno stile sobrio, rigoroso ma sempre aggraziato, di una precisione maniacale e con una cura estrema per i dettagli. La sua creatività apportò elementi insoliti alla moda del momento, introducendo tessuti meno preziosi e considerati poveri quali il cotone, la pelle o il denim, che non erano associati alla moda dell’epoca ma che lui rese eleganti e desiderabili con i suoi originali modelli. Iniziò inoltre ad usare tessuti maschili per confezionare capi femminili dando alle sue creazioni un’aria più fresca, giovane e leggera. Fecero scalpore anche i rivoluzionari spezzati, gonna e blusa, che rompono gli schemi del blasonato abito intero.

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Con grande genialità creò modelli come il ballon coat (cappotto bombato), il vestito baby doll (che cingeva le spalle e proseguiva allargandosi in fondo), l’abito a sacco, il mantello a collo avvolgente, l’abito a bustino, la gonna a palloncino, i pantaloni con micro stampe floreali, il tailleur. Ma sopra tutto l’iconica “blusa Bettina”, prima camicetta in cotone piquet con volano nelle maniche in pizzo sangallo ricamato con filo di cotone nero che dedicò alla modella più celebre dell’epoca, Bettina Graziani.

I suoi modelli chiamati “séparables”, di una eleganza essenziale, confezionati con materiali semplici e delle linee pulite senza frivolezze, segnano una rottura dallo stile sfarzoso dell’epoca. Le sue creazioni son uno stile semplice ed essenziale lanciarono il “prêt a porter” con la “Nouvelle Boutiche” che rappresenterà un passaggio epocale nella storia della moda.

Il tubino di raso nero da lui disegnato nel 1961 per Audrey Hepburn nel film “Colazione da Tiffany” rimane ancora oggi uno degli abiti più influenti della storia della moda femminile. Ma non solo: Givenchy vestì tutte le dive e donne più influenti di quel periodo, da Jacqueline Kennedy alla Regina Elisabetta II.

Quando un personaggio di questo valore ci lascia, è quasi d’obbligo essergli grati per il valore aggiunto che con le sue creazioni ha apportato al mondo della moda e allo stile.

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Personalmente, come donna, la mia grande riconoscenza per il lungimirante couturier è per aver superato tutti gli schemi dello style dominante, per aver dato un enorme contributo all’emancipazione della donna, rendendola più libera e rafforzandone autostima e indipendenza con i suoi abiti, per aver reso l’eleganza accessibile a tutte sposando la democratizzazione della moda.

I miei abiti permettono movimenti sciolti e fluidi, i miei vestiti sono vestiti reali, ultra-leggeri, senza imbottiture e corsetti, sono indumenti che aleggiano su un corpo libero da lacci.

Grazie per la tua eredità Hubert de Givenchy.

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